Essential Guide to Sewing Machine Threads
by Sharon Khoo

Thread, you cannot sew a seam without it but not all threads are the same and which is the best thread to use with your sewing machine? Our guide to sewing threads will help you pick the best type of threads for your project so you can get the best results from your stash! As you shop for your thread, you'll see that thread is available in various colors, thicknesses, and types. To pick the right color of thread, unravel the thread end off of the spool and place it across your fabric and let the thread blend/disappear into the fabric. If your fabric is multicolored or printed in a few different colors, choose the dominant color which expresses more intensity among the other colors in your fabric. You may want a contrast thread for edge stitching and topstitching, depending on the look you are going for. Having several spools of cotton and polyester thread in white and black is always a good idea.

Most of your garments for daily use will be using our ‘general purpose’ or ‘sew-all’ thread. Lighter weight items can benefit from extra-fine thread, while heavier projects may require extra-strong, upholstery, or topstitching thread.

General purpose thread is usually 100% polyester which manufactured differently to have a smooth or shiny finish. Polyester sewing thread are strong, durable, and flexible. Polyester sewing thread also has sun-resistant, anti-chemical, degradation feature and is widely used on industry and home sewing machines. It is the thread you will use most frequently in your sewing projects, and the one you will want to buy in every color.

If you are interested in natural fibers, it can be tempting to choose cotton instead of polyester thread for a sewing project. Cotton thread is made by 100% cotton and with good sew ability and low elongation, this thread will not be affected by needle heat or pressing. However, cotton is not as strong as polyester, and it lighter weights will not stand up to the stress of wear over time. If your project is not going to be under stress, it is a perfect natural option. Cotton thread is notorious for shedding! Be sure to give your sewing machine a good clean once your project is complete.

Silk thread is exceptionally fine, smooth, and lustrous. It is great to use when sewing natural fabric such as silk or wool. It is ideal for tailoring as it is extraordinarily strong and can withstand high temperatures. Pure Silk Thread is the perfect thread for Crochet, Embroidery and Weaving. It is Abrasion-Resistant and Chemical-Resistant. You can also use silk thread for basting and when teamed with the correct needle it will not leave unsightly holes in the fabric.

Industrial sewing thread or heavy-duty sewing thread are mainly for industrial. This thread is tougher and usually larger in thickness than other types of thread. Industrial sewing thread is often treated with a special coating that allows it to be used in a manufacturing environment. This is why you will see industrial sewing thread labeled as bonded or unbonded depending on whether it has a coating. That is why industrial thread can handle the demanding conditions of industrial sewing, including multidirectional sewing and operating at extremely high speeds. Industrial sewing thread is mainly used in the garment industry to make shirts, jeans, pants and more.

Choosing the right thread for your sewing projects will mostly be decided by your choice of fabric. The thread should match the size, weight, and properties of the fabric you will be sewing on. We recommend matching the thread content to the fabric content e.g., cotton thread for natural fabrics and polyester thread for synthetic blend fabrics. There are many smart sewing tips and tricks that is easy to apply which you should know to enhance on your next sewing project.

Understanding and using the correct thread sizing is another key point to take note. The size of a thread refers to how thick it is? There are two systems for determining this, Denier Count or Weight, and Tex.

Denier Count or Weight: This is the measurement you will come across most often. A thread’s weight is determined by how much it weights per kilometre of length. For e.g., a thread is classified as ‘40wt’ when 40 kilometre of that thread weighs 1 kilogram. You might recognize the term from the descriptions of nylon fabrics, which are often classified by the denier of the threads from which they are woven.

Tex: This is weight in grams of 1,000 metres of thread. So, if a thread is 1 Tex, that means that 1,000 metres of thread will weigh 1 gram.